| Weathering click on images to enlarge |
Overview
This subject is a matter of preference, taste and debate. Each modeler
has their opinions on weathering as well as their own methods and
techniques. I'm a big fan of weathering and I am always trying new
ideas and materials. Weathering will enhance the realism and character
of a model. However, one major skill is to know when to say when.
Overdone weathering will take away from the appearance. In this
section, I will touch on some of the methods and materials I use.
This subject is a matter of preference, taste and debate. Each modeler
has their opinions on weathering as well as their own methods and
techniques. I'm a big fan of weathering and I am always trying new
ideas and materials. Weathering will enhance the realism and character
of a model. However, one major skill is to know when to say when.
Overdone weathering will take away from the appearance. In this
section, I will touch on some of the methods and materials I use.
Washes
The purpose of a wash is to accent any recessed or raised detail. A
dark wash will create the illusion of depth and detail visibility. On
large surfaces, a wash can break up an otherwise mono toned
appearance by defining small detail and lines. Most modelers use
an oil based, acrylic or watercolor wash. I always use watercolor
for a couple of reasons. They're easy to remove from the model
and dry quickly. Plus, they won't stain the finish or decals. So, let's
get started by mixing up a batch.
I use a small, sealed container to mix and keep my washes.
1. A small dab of watercolor (actual colors will be covered further
down). The mix should be about 20% paint
2. Water. The mix should be about 80% water
3. A few drops of liquid dish soap. This will break up the water
surface tension and cause the wash to flow into recessed areas
and corners.
4. A few drops of white vinegar. Don't ask me why but the vinegar
will cause the watercolor pigments to pool and not spread.
Therefore, the pigment will remain in the recessed areas and not
bleed out onto the surrounding surface area.
5. A small fine point brush and some Q-tips and damp paper towel
Now, it's time to apply the wash. Make sure the wash is mixed well.
1. You will want to apply any wash after the second gloss coat that
was applied over the decals. A wash is much easier to remove
from a gloss coat rather than a flat coat.
2. Use the brush to fill all recessed detail and lines and let dry.
3. Once, the wash is completely dry, remove the excess from the
surfaces with the damp paper towel. This may take a few tries to
get it off. Use the O-tip for hard to reach places. If some or all the
wash comes out of the recessed areas. Reapply and try again.
This means the recessed area is too shallow. If the wash is not
dark enough, reapply more to the area until satisfied.
4. Allow the entire wash to fully dry. Then, a final flat coat can be
sprayed on to seal the wash and cover the gloss coat
5. If the detail just won't hold the wash, you can use a sharpened
dark gray colored pencil to fill in the section. Just lightly trace the
detail. If you make a mistake, use a white eraser to remove the
pencil. I recommend Prismacolor pencils.
Color choices depends on the application of the wash and what
you want to achieve. Using a variety of colors is a simple way to
simulate certain types of weathering. Here is a list of colors I use
for certain results.
Dark Gray or Payne's Gray - This is a good overall color for panel
lines, rivets, strut components, engines and cockpit detail. Grays
are dark enough but not too dark. Black is not recommended.
Browns, Siennas and Earth tones - These are good for
undercarriages where there was exposure to mud, dust and grime.
Black mixed with Burnt Sienna makes a good mud color.
Yellow Ochre and Burnt Umber- Excellent colors for simulating
rust and oxidation around panel lines and rivets. Mix together so
the yellow is toned down.
The purpose of a wash is to accent any recessed or raised detail. A
dark wash will create the illusion of depth and detail visibility. On
large surfaces, a wash can break up an otherwise mono toned
appearance by defining small detail and lines. Most modelers use
an oil based, acrylic or watercolor wash. I always use watercolor
for a couple of reasons. They're easy to remove from the model
and dry quickly. Plus, they won't stain the finish or decals. So, let's
get started by mixing up a batch.
I use a small, sealed container to mix and keep my washes.
1. A small dab of watercolor (actual colors will be covered further
down). The mix should be about 20% paint
2. Water. The mix should be about 80% water
3. A few drops of liquid dish soap. This will break up the water
surface tension and cause the wash to flow into recessed areas
and corners.
4. A few drops of white vinegar. Don't ask me why but the vinegar
will cause the watercolor pigments to pool and not spread.
Therefore, the pigment will remain in the recessed areas and not
bleed out onto the surrounding surface area.
5. A small fine point brush and some Q-tips and damp paper towel
Now, it's time to apply the wash. Make sure the wash is mixed well.
1. You will want to apply any wash after the second gloss coat that
was applied over the decals. A wash is much easier to remove
from a gloss coat rather than a flat coat.
2. Use the brush to fill all recessed detail and lines and let dry.
3. Once, the wash is completely dry, remove the excess from the
surfaces with the damp paper towel. This may take a few tries to
get it off. Use the O-tip for hard to reach places. If some or all the
wash comes out of the recessed areas. Reapply and try again.
This means the recessed area is too shallow. If the wash is not
dark enough, reapply more to the area until satisfied.
4. Allow the entire wash to fully dry. Then, a final flat coat can be
sprayed on to seal the wash and cover the gloss coat
5. If the detail just won't hold the wash, you can use a sharpened
dark gray colored pencil to fill in the section. Just lightly trace the
detail. If you make a mistake, use a white eraser to remove the
pencil. I recommend Prismacolor pencils.
Color choices depends on the application of the wash and what
you want to achieve. Using a variety of colors is a simple way to
simulate certain types of weathering. Here is a list of colors I use
for certain results.
Dark Gray or Payne's Gray - This is a good overall color for panel
lines, rivets, strut components, engines and cockpit detail. Grays
are dark enough but not too dark. Black is not recommended.
Browns, Siennas and Earth tones - These are good for
undercarriages where there was exposure to mud, dust and grime.
Black mixed with Burnt Sienna makes a good mud color.
Yellow Ochre and Burnt Umber- Excellent colors for simulating
rust and oxidation around panel lines and rivets. Mix together so
the yellow is toned down.
Pastels
Colored and earth tone pastels are an excellent way to simulate
weathering, fading, exhaust staining, cordite staining and dust. I picked up
a set of colored and earth toned soft pastels at my local art store. They can
be carved with an xacto blade to produce a fine powder for application. I
find the best ways to apply them is with a sponge tipped make-up
applicator and a stiff, stubby brush. Pastels will adhere to flat finishes and
natural metal finishes but not metal foil. Pastels must go on very last. The
model must be complete. Why? Pastels will disappear if a clear coat is
applied over them. So, you can't seal them . Therefore, if the model isn't
complete, they may get rubbed off from handling.
Colored pastel sets will allow you to tint and lighten any colors on the
model. For example, if you want to simulate paint fading on a dark green
surface, you could use a beige, khaki or pale yellow to blend into the dark
green for a soft fade. For an overall fade on any color, a light gray or sand
could be used. For exhaust staining, black layered with white and red will
look convincing. There's no set guidelines for color usage. Experiment
and see what works for you.
Earth tone pastels will give more of a dirty/dusty effect. I use these to
highlight panel lines, wheel bays and cowlings where dirt and dust would
have accumulated.
Keep in mind, subtlety is the key. Apply small amounts, blend and build
up. If too much is applied, a white eraser or damp Q-tip will remove the
pastels.
Colored and earth tone pastels are an excellent way to simulate
weathering, fading, exhaust staining, cordite staining and dust. I picked up
a set of colored and earth toned soft pastels at my local art store. They can
be carved with an xacto blade to produce a fine powder for application. I
find the best ways to apply them is with a sponge tipped make-up
applicator and a stiff, stubby brush. Pastels will adhere to flat finishes and
natural metal finishes but not metal foil. Pastels must go on very last. The
model must be complete. Why? Pastels will disappear if a clear coat is
applied over them. So, you can't seal them . Therefore, if the model isn't
complete, they may get rubbed off from handling.
Colored pastel sets will allow you to tint and lighten any colors on the
model. For example, if you want to simulate paint fading on a dark green
surface, you could use a beige, khaki or pale yellow to blend into the dark
green for a soft fade. For an overall fade on any color, a light gray or sand
could be used. For exhaust staining, black layered with white and red will
look convincing. There's no set guidelines for color usage. Experiment
and see what works for you.
Earth tone pastels will give more of a dirty/dusty effect. I use these to
highlight panel lines, wheel bays and cowlings where dirt and dust would
have accumulated.
Keep in mind, subtlety is the key. Apply small amounts, blend and build
up. If too much is applied, a white eraser or damp Q-tip will remove the
pastels.
Paint Chipping
Paint failure was common on combat aircraft. Due to harsh
conditions, no primer, poor upkeep or foot traffic, many planes
displayed paint chipping. There a couple of well known ways to
simulate this effect.
Salt Chipping
This is probably the most time consuming method but the most
effective. It may seem intimidating at first. But, after your first time,
you'll have it down. All that's needed is a bowl of water and regular
table salt.
1. Spray the entire model with a natural metal base coat (I covered this
subject in the painting and finishing section). Any metallic lacquer
paint will work but I recommend Alclad II or the Model Master
metalizer. Once fully cured, the finishes are hard and durable.
Enamel or acrylic paint will not withstand this technique. Allow the
finish to cure (48+ hours minimum).
2. Place the water and salt in individual bowls. A thick paint brush is
needed to spot the water on the model. Place the water and salt in
areas where paint chipping would occur. Reference pictures of the
aircraft is recommended for help in placement. Start putting
small drops of water onto a section of the model. Then, sprinkle
small amounts of salt by hand onto the water drops. At this point,
the water/salt mixture can be moved around with a small brush into
position. Once the mixture is placed accordingly, allow it to dry
thoroughly. When dried, the salt will be crystallized and stuck to the
model, making an irregular mask.
Paint failure was common on combat aircraft. Due to harsh
conditions, no primer, poor upkeep or foot traffic, many planes
displayed paint chipping. There a couple of well known ways to
simulate this effect.
Salt Chipping
This is probably the most time consuming method but the most
effective. It may seem intimidating at first. But, after your first time,
you'll have it down. All that's needed is a bowl of water and regular
table salt.
1. Spray the entire model with a natural metal base coat (I covered this
subject in the painting and finishing section). Any metallic lacquer
paint will work but I recommend Alclad II or the Model Master
metalizer. Once fully cured, the finishes are hard and durable.
Enamel or acrylic paint will not withstand this technique. Allow the
finish to cure (48+ hours minimum).
2. Place the water and salt in individual bowls. A thick paint brush is
needed to spot the water on the model. Place the water and salt in
areas where paint chipping would occur. Reference pictures of the
aircraft is recommended for help in placement. Start putting
small drops of water onto a section of the model. Then, sprinkle
small amounts of salt by hand onto the water drops. At this point,
the water/salt mixture can be moved around with a small brush into
position. Once the mixture is placed accordingly, allow it to dry
thoroughly. When dried, the salt will be crystallized and stuck to the
model, making an irregular mask.
| 1. |
| 2. |
