| Overview |
| Cockpit Interiors click on images to enlarge |
When I begin a cockpit, all relevant parts are removed and placed
in a bowl. I will determine what needs to be painted separately and
what can be assembled prior to painting. All major parts are glued
together so they are in place to paint and won't have to be
handled. The smaller parts will be painted, detailed and set aside
for installation. In most cases, a watercolor wash is added to the
side panels and floor as well. Sometimes, if a wash is too bold, I
will use dry pastels for a softer effect. I discuss washes and
pastels further in the weathering section.
in a bowl. I will determine what needs to be painted separately and
what can be assembled prior to painting. All major parts are glued
together so they are in place to paint and won't have to be
handled. The smaller parts will be painted, detailed and set aside
for installation. In most cases, a watercolor wash is added to the
side panels and floor as well. Sometimes, if a wash is too bold, I
will use dry pastels for a softer effect. I discuss washes and
pastels further in the weathering section.
Detailing
Some modelers prefer to use resin kits for their cockpits. I never
found an interest in using them. In some cases, they can be costly. I
prefer to use the kit parts and add some inexpensive detail to it. Let's
face it, most of the time our hard work goes unseen once it's all said
and done. For the majority of my "offices", I like to use Eduard photo-
etched color sets and scratch-built seat belts. I feel PE seat belts are
too rigid and troublesome. So, lead foil with PE buckles are an
excellent alternative.
*Lead foil is very pliable and easy to use. It can be cut into thin strips
with a sharp Xacto knife. It can also be painted once it's in place.
Once the PE buckles are added, the results are pretty convincing.
*Lead foil can be used for other details such as ammo belts and
armour plating.
Some modelers prefer to use resin kits for their cockpits. I never
found an interest in using them. In some cases, they can be costly. I
prefer to use the kit parts and add some inexpensive detail to it. Let's
face it, most of the time our hard work goes unseen once it's all said
and done. For the majority of my "offices", I like to use Eduard photo-
etched color sets and scratch-built seat belts. I feel PE seat belts are
too rigid and troublesome. So, lead foil with PE buckles are an
excellent alternative.
*Lead foil is very pliable and easy to use. It can be cut into thin strips
with a sharp Xacto knife. It can also be painted once it's in place.
Once the PE buckles are added, the results are pretty convincing.
*Lead foil can be used for other details such as ammo belts and
armour plating.
The photo-etched color sets are nicely done, inexpensive
and display excellent detail. They only need to be super
glued into place. The dial consoles are especially well done.
and display excellent detail. They only need to be super
glued into place. The dial consoles are especially well done.
Dry-brushing
This is probably one of the most effective methods of
detailing. Dry-brushing is more of an illusion that adds depth
and definition to make parts more noticeable. It will take
some practice and the right tools to get the right effect. Any
raised detail is a good candidate for dry-brushing, interior or
exterior. My tools of choice are a stubby paintbrush, acrylic
paint and a metallic silver pencil. The pencil is good for small,
controlled applications where the brush is good for larger
areas. The key to effective dry-brushing is to remove almost
all the paint from the bristles before you apply. Then, lightly
'scrub' the part with the brush concentrating on edges and
raised details. If need be, layers can be added until satisfied.
In this case, too little is better than too much.
Color use for dry-brushing will also add realism and depth.
Deciding on a color depends on the base color of the detail.
Below are some suggested dry-brush colors for specific
cockpit/component colors.
Base Color: Dry-brush with:
_________________________________________________
Yellow
US Interior Green 2:Yellow+1:White
_________________________________________________
Pale Green
RAF Interior Green White
_________________________________________________
Pale Green
IJN Interior Green White
_________________________________________________
RLM 02 (Gray)
RLM 66 (Black-Gray) Neutral Gray
Gunship Gray
_________________________________________________
Light Gray
Black (consoles, radios) White
Aluminum
_________________________________________________
Khaki
Leather Tan
Earth Red
_________________________________________________
This is probably one of the most effective methods of
detailing. Dry-brushing is more of an illusion that adds depth
and definition to make parts more noticeable. It will take
some practice and the right tools to get the right effect. Any
raised detail is a good candidate for dry-brushing, interior or
exterior. My tools of choice are a stubby paintbrush, acrylic
paint and a metallic silver pencil. The pencil is good for small,
controlled applications where the brush is good for larger
areas. The key to effective dry-brushing is to remove almost
all the paint from the bristles before you apply. Then, lightly
'scrub' the part with the brush concentrating on edges and
raised details. If need be, layers can be added until satisfied.
In this case, too little is better than too much.
Color use for dry-brushing will also add realism and depth.
Deciding on a color depends on the base color of the detail.
Below are some suggested dry-brush colors for specific
cockpit/component colors.
Base Color: Dry-brush with:
_________________________________________________
Yellow
US Interior Green 2:Yellow+1:White
_________________________________________________
Pale Green
RAF Interior Green White
_________________________________________________
Pale Green
IJN Interior Green White
_________________________________________________
RLM 02 (Gray)
RLM 66 (Black-Gray) Neutral Gray
Gunship Gray
_________________________________________________
Light Gray
Black (consoles, radios) White
Aluminum
_________________________________________________
Khaki
Leather Tan
Earth Red
_________________________________________________
| Dry-brushing on raised detail, corners and rivets. Notice the dark pastel 'wash' behind the dry-brushing. |
Here are some examples of a detailed cockpit. Notice the picture
that's only painted as the instructions call for. The next picture has
a gray wash, seat belts and dry-brushing added. With these simple
techniques, the detail stands out and creates a "busy" look. Even
though most of the cockpit detail will not be seen in the end, it's
good practice to apply these methods and get a feel for them.
that's only painted as the instructions call for. The next picture has
a gray wash, seat belts and dry-brushing added. With these simple
techniques, the detail stands out and creates a "busy" look. Even
though most of the cockpit detail will not be seen in the end, it's
good practice to apply these methods and get a feel for them.
| Use of appropriate colors for dry-brushing will bring out the detail. Pale green was used for all raised detail. |
