Decal Alternatives
When done correctly, decals can appear to be 'painted' on. However, if
you choose to actually paint the insignia, numbers or nose art, there are a
couple of ways to do it. It will take a little patience and forethought, but the
outcome will be worth it.
When done correctly, decals can appear to be 'painted' on. However, if
you choose to actually paint the insignia, numbers or nose art, there are a
couple of ways to do it. It will take a little patience and forethought, but the
outcome will be worth it.
Make Your Own Stencil/Mask
This may seem a little intimidating at first thought but overall, it's
rather simple. Here's what you will need:
1. A piece of glass ( I use one from a picture frame)
2. A NEW Xacto blade
3. A piece of wax paper
4. A piece of 1" wide low tac masking tape. 1" wide should be a
sufficient size for most 1:48 work. If a larger piece is needed,
double it up or go to a wider size.
5. A sharp pencil
6. A ruler
7. A little artistic ability
For this tutorial, I will be making a nose art mask for a "Burma
Banshees" P-40N. A skull goes on either side of the nose. Since
the skulls will be white over the Olive Drab scheme, I will use a
mask as opposed to a stencil. If the skulls were to be a darker
color, then I could use a stencil. White will not coat well over
Olive Drab (or any other darker color) without excessive coats.
Here are the basic steps:
1. Determine the dimensions of the nose art according to your
model's scale. Measure the area on the actual model where
the mask will be placed. For example, I have a 1" by 1" box on
the P-40 nose to work with.
2. An actual picture of the image will help to recreate it. I found a
great shot on the internet to use as a guide. This will help with
relative sizing and placement.
3. Place the tape on the glass and mark off the image
dimensions on the tape. Then, draw the image on the tape
with a pencil. It may take several attempts but that's what
the eraser is for.
4. Once drawn, lift the tape off the glass and stick on the piece of
wax paper. If a second image is needed for the other side of
the nose, apply another piece of tape on the backside of the
wax paper.
5. Place your work on the glass or a cutting mat and carefully
cut the image out with the Xacto knife. Be sure to apply
enough pressure to cut all the way through. Now, you have
both a stencil and mask.
6. If you flip the cut image over, you now have a second mask
for the other side which is identical. The wax paper is now
sandwiched between the two images. Be sure to trim up the
edges of the mask so there are clean.
7. After the model has been primed and allowed to dry, apply a
coat of white (or other colors needed) on the model where
the mask will go.
8. Allow the color to dry for 24 hours. Then, place the masks on
the areas and lightly burnish down. Keep in mind, the masks
will remain on the model until ALL paint is applied, excluding
the clear coat.
9. Now the final color coat/coats can be applied over the masks
and allowed to fully dry.
10. Carefully remove the masks with tweezers.
11. Any detail can be added by hand painting or using fine tip
permanent markers.
This may seem a little intimidating at first thought but overall, it's
rather simple. Here's what you will need:
1. A piece of glass ( I use one from a picture frame)
2. A NEW Xacto blade
3. A piece of wax paper
4. A piece of 1" wide low tac masking tape. 1" wide should be a
sufficient size for most 1:48 work. If a larger piece is needed,
double it up or go to a wider size.
5. A sharp pencil
6. A ruler
7. A little artistic ability
For this tutorial, I will be making a nose art mask for a "Burma
Banshees" P-40N. A skull goes on either side of the nose. Since
the skulls will be white over the Olive Drab scheme, I will use a
mask as opposed to a stencil. If the skulls were to be a darker
color, then I could use a stencil. White will not coat well over
Olive Drab (or any other darker color) without excessive coats.
Here are the basic steps:
1. Determine the dimensions of the nose art according to your
model's scale. Measure the area on the actual model where
the mask will be placed. For example, I have a 1" by 1" box on
the P-40 nose to work with.
2. An actual picture of the image will help to recreate it. I found a
great shot on the internet to use as a guide. This will help with
relative sizing and placement.
3. Place the tape on the glass and mark off the image
dimensions on the tape. Then, draw the image on the tape
with a pencil. It may take several attempts but that's what
the eraser is for.
4. Once drawn, lift the tape off the glass and stick on the piece of
wax paper. If a second image is needed for the other side of
the nose, apply another piece of tape on the backside of the
wax paper.
5. Place your work on the glass or a cutting mat and carefully
cut the image out with the Xacto knife. Be sure to apply
enough pressure to cut all the way through. Now, you have
both a stencil and mask.
6. If you flip the cut image over, you now have a second mask
for the other side which is identical. The wax paper is now
sandwiched between the two images. Be sure to trim up the
edges of the mask so there are clean.
7. After the model has been primed and allowed to dry, apply a
coat of white (or other colors needed) on the model where
the mask will go.
8. Allow the color to dry for 24 hours. Then, place the masks on
the areas and lightly burnish down. Keep in mind, the masks
will remain on the model until ALL paint is applied, excluding
the clear coat.
9. Now the final color coat/coats can be applied over the masks
and allowed to fully dry.
10. Carefully remove the masks with tweezers.
11. Any detail can be added by hand painting or using fine tip
permanent markers.
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Pre-cut Masks/Stencils
Kenny Loup, owner of Gator's Paint Masks, makes pre-cut masks
and stencils for a wide variety of modeling applications. For this
section, I will demonstrate the 1:48 U.S. insignia sheet Kenny
offers. Here are a few items you will need:
1. Xacto knife
2. A piece of frisket film. This can be found at any art store. It's a
clear vinyl sheet with an adhesive backing. It usually comes
stuck to a sheet of waxed paper.
3. Tweezers
4. Gator Mask insignia sheet
Let's get started:
1. Keep in mind to plan ahead. Give some thought to the order of
the colors required. The general rule is, begin with white or the
lighter color first and finish with the darkest. With a U.S. insignia,
the two colors are white and dark sea blue. So, laying down the
white is first.
2. After the model has been primed and allowed to dry, apply a coat
of white to the area where the insignia will be. Let the white dry
for 24 hours.
3. Cut the insignia from the main sheet and remove the stencil
portion. Be sure to save the stencil for later.
4. Cut a piece of the frisket film so it will cover the entire mask and
lightly burnish the film to the mask.
5. Gently remove the film from the mask backing. The actual mask
should stick to the film while removing. Take your time so all the
parts of the mask come off together as they were.
6. Now place the film/mask to the model. Be sure it's aligned and
positioned before you burnish it down. You may not get a second
chance if it has to be removed.
7. Once the mask is secure, remove the film slowly so the mask
won't come with it. Now it's ready for painting.
8. Apply all the paint coats that's required except for the clear coat.
Allow to dry for 24 hours.
9. Carefully lift a remove the portion of the mask that will not remain
white (white portion in photo). Keep the star and bars masks in
place.
10. Take the stencil portion that was saved and place so it fits
around the exposed white portion. I recommend sticking the
stencil to a cloth first to ease the tackiness of the adhesive
backing. This will make removal easier if need be. Several
attempts may be needed to align correctly.
11. Apply the second color (dark sea blue) over the white area.
12. Gently pry the masks up with an Xacto blade and remove with
tweezers.
Kenny Loup, owner of Gator's Paint Masks, makes pre-cut masks
and stencils for a wide variety of modeling applications. For this
section, I will demonstrate the 1:48 U.S. insignia sheet Kenny
offers. Here are a few items you will need:
1. Xacto knife
2. A piece of frisket film. This can be found at any art store. It's a
clear vinyl sheet with an adhesive backing. It usually comes
stuck to a sheet of waxed paper.
3. Tweezers
4. Gator Mask insignia sheet
Let's get started:
1. Keep in mind to plan ahead. Give some thought to the order of
the colors required. The general rule is, begin with white or the
lighter color first and finish with the darkest. With a U.S. insignia,
the two colors are white and dark sea blue. So, laying down the
white is first.
2. After the model has been primed and allowed to dry, apply a coat
of white to the area where the insignia will be. Let the white dry
for 24 hours.
3. Cut the insignia from the main sheet and remove the stencil
portion. Be sure to save the stencil for later.
4. Cut a piece of the frisket film so it will cover the entire mask and
lightly burnish the film to the mask.
5. Gently remove the film from the mask backing. The actual mask
should stick to the film while removing. Take your time so all the
parts of the mask come off together as they were.
6. Now place the film/mask to the model. Be sure it's aligned and
positioned before you burnish it down. You may not get a second
chance if it has to be removed.
7. Once the mask is secure, remove the film slowly so the mask
won't come with it. Now it's ready for painting.
8. Apply all the paint coats that's required except for the clear coat.
Allow to dry for 24 hours.
9. Carefully lift a remove the portion of the mask that will not remain
white (white portion in photo). Keep the star and bars masks in
place.
10. Take the stencil portion that was saved and place so it fits
around the exposed white portion. I recommend sticking the
stencil to a cloth first to ease the tackiness of the adhesive
backing. This will make removal easier if need be. Several
attempts may be needed to align correctly.
11. Apply the second color (dark sea blue) over the white area.
12. Gently pry the masks up with an Xacto blade and remove with
tweezers.
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