| Decaling click on images to enlarge |
Overview
If decals are not properly applied, they can hinder the overall look of your project.
The primary goal is to make them appear as if they had been painted on. Of
course, this was the case on the actual planes. In some cases, it would be ideal to
paint the insignia, number or stripes if possible. That will have to be an individual
judgement call. Some simple steps should be considered to achieve the proper
look.
1. A gloss should be applied to the entire model and allowed to dry for 24 hours. A
gloss coat will give a smooth, flat surface for the decal to adhere to. Good
adhesion will ensure no "silvering" and avoid covering small, recessed detail.
Silvering is when the decal is not fully secured to the surface. Small pockets of
air form between the surface and the decal. When light hits the decal in a certain
direction, these pockets appear silver. This makes the overall decal look more
like a sticker.
2. A bowl of tepid water, tweezers, a soft, flat paint brush and some setting
solution is a must for success. I will discuss setting solutions further down.
3. Like the kits, some decals are better than others. If that kit has a bad decal
reputation, you may want to consider spare or aftermarket decals. Thick decals
can be troublesome and look unconvincing and very thin decals can tear easily
or disintegrate.
4. Place the decals into the water for a minute or so. If they stay too long, they will
separate from the paper and will be very hard to handle.
5. When ready, slide the decal from the paper backing onto the model where it
goes. If the decal needs to be moved or adjusted, use the flat brush to shift it
into place.
6. Once in place, use the brush to lightly flatten the decal and remove the
excess water from underneath it. Start from the center of the decal and work
your way outward. Continue until all water is removed and the decal appears
"stuck".
7. Apply a coat of setting solution with a soft brush over the entire decal, including
the edges. The edges are where most of the silvering will occur. Let this coat
dry and monitor the decal to see if it starts to settle into the detail or curvature it's
covering. In most cases, two or three applications may be needed for proper
settling. Let the solution dry and work before adding another coat. Keep in mind,
the solution softens the decal. If the decal is moved or brushed too hard, it will
tear or the overall shape will distort. Take your time.
8. Let dry for 24 hours. The decal will be fully settled and ready for a clear coat.
Apply another entire gloss coat to seal the decals. By doing this, the clear
portions of the decal will disappear. Let the gloss coat fully dry.
* The only exceptions to this process is a natural metal finish and metal foil. Since
these finishes are the ideal surfaces, decals can be applied directly to the finish.
Setting solution is still recommended. If you choose to apply a clear coat over
the decal itself, be sure to mask it off as best you can to avoid getting the clear
coat on the metal finish. If no clear coat is applied, the decal can be removed
easily by accident. So, be mindful when using any masking or handling.
If decals are not properly applied, they can hinder the overall look of your project.
The primary goal is to make them appear as if they had been painted on. Of
course, this was the case on the actual planes. In some cases, it would be ideal to
paint the insignia, number or stripes if possible. That will have to be an individual
judgement call. Some simple steps should be considered to achieve the proper
look.
1. A gloss should be applied to the entire model and allowed to dry for 24 hours. A
gloss coat will give a smooth, flat surface for the decal to adhere to. Good
adhesion will ensure no "silvering" and avoid covering small, recessed detail.
Silvering is when the decal is not fully secured to the surface. Small pockets of
air form between the surface and the decal. When light hits the decal in a certain
direction, these pockets appear silver. This makes the overall decal look more
like a sticker.
2. A bowl of tepid water, tweezers, a soft, flat paint brush and some setting
solution is a must for success. I will discuss setting solutions further down.
3. Like the kits, some decals are better than others. If that kit has a bad decal
reputation, you may want to consider spare or aftermarket decals. Thick decals
can be troublesome and look unconvincing and very thin decals can tear easily
or disintegrate.
4. Place the decals into the water for a minute or so. If they stay too long, they will
separate from the paper and will be very hard to handle.
5. When ready, slide the decal from the paper backing onto the model where it
goes. If the decal needs to be moved or adjusted, use the flat brush to shift it
into place.
6. Once in place, use the brush to lightly flatten the decal and remove the
excess water from underneath it. Start from the center of the decal and work
your way outward. Continue until all water is removed and the decal appears
"stuck".
7. Apply a coat of setting solution with a soft brush over the entire decal, including
the edges. The edges are where most of the silvering will occur. Let this coat
dry and monitor the decal to see if it starts to settle into the detail or curvature it's
covering. In most cases, two or three applications may be needed for proper
settling. Let the solution dry and work before adding another coat. Keep in mind,
the solution softens the decal. If the decal is moved or brushed too hard, it will
tear or the overall shape will distort. Take your time.
8. Let dry for 24 hours. The decal will be fully settled and ready for a clear coat.
Apply another entire gloss coat to seal the decals. By doing this, the clear
portions of the decal will disappear. Let the gloss coat fully dry.
* The only exceptions to this process is a natural metal finish and metal foil. Since
these finishes are the ideal surfaces, decals can be applied directly to the finish.
Setting solution is still recommended. If you choose to apply a clear coat over
the decal itself, be sure to mask it off as best you can to avoid getting the clear
coat on the metal finish. If no clear coat is applied, the decal can be removed
easily by accident. So, be mindful when using any masking or handling.
Setting Solutions
There are a few products that are a must for proper
decaling. These solutions help the decal set and conform
to any detail that's under them. Even if there's no detail
being covered, I recommend the solution be applied to
secure and flatten the decal as much as possible. Some
have complained that the solution will discolor the gloss
clear coat around the decal. I haven't had this problem yet.
However, to avoid this, make sure the gloss coat is cured
and get as little as possible on the gloss coat. A small
applicator brush will help control the amount applied and
where it's applied.
There are a few products that are a must for proper
decaling. These solutions help the decal set and conform
to any detail that's under them. Even if there's no detail
being covered, I recommend the solution be applied to
secure and flatten the decal as much as possible. Some
have complained that the solution will discolor the gloss
clear coat around the decal. I haven't had this problem yet.
However, to avoid this, make sure the gloss coat is cured
and get as little as possible on the gloss coat. A small
applicator brush will help control the amount applied and
where it's applied.
Helps decal setting and adhesion
| Softens decals to conform to irregular surfaces |
Softens and sets decals
Decal Silvering
If decals are properly applied, silvering won't be an issue.
However, it's not an absolute guarantee. If there is silvering,
there are a few procedures that will correct it.
1. Prior to putting the decal in water, trim the clear sections of
the decal off with a new Xacto blade. Be careful not to cut into
the colored areas of the decal.
2. If silvering appears after the decal is set and gloss coated,
lightly paint the silvered area with thinned paint. Use the same
color that's behind the decal.
3. If the decal looks poor and needs to be replaced, apply a
piece of low-tac tape over the entire decal and pull off. If the
decal was not set well, it will lift right off. If several pieces of the
decal remain, apply some solvent to soften the pieces and
remove with the tape. Then, replace with a new decal.
* Silvering will be more obvious on darker colors. Lighter colors
tend to hide the silvering better.
If decals are properly applied, silvering won't be an issue.
However, it's not an absolute guarantee. If there is silvering,
there are a few procedures that will correct it.
1. Prior to putting the decal in water, trim the clear sections of
the decal off with a new Xacto blade. Be careful not to cut into
the colored areas of the decal.
2. If silvering appears after the decal is set and gloss coated,
lightly paint the silvered area with thinned paint. Use the same
color that's behind the decal.
3. If the decal looks poor and needs to be replaced, apply a
piece of low-tac tape over the entire decal and pull off. If the
decal was not set well, it will lift right off. If several pieces of the
decal remain, apply some solvent to soften the pieces and
remove with the tape. Then, replace with a new decal.
* Silvering will be more obvious on darker colors. Lighter colors
tend to hide the silvering better.
| Some good examples of silvering on the edges and clear sections of a decal |