| Construction click on images to enlarge |
Overview
Next to a well done finish, construction is equally important in the
overall appearance of a model. To most, this subject is the least
favorite aspect of modeling. This is certainly the case for me.
Nonetheless, I try to do the best job I can and consider it a challenge.
When I begin this process, I tell myself to allow the time needed to
reach my expectations. The two major components needed are time
and patience. Learning to glue, fill and sand will come quickly with
each build. In this section, I will discuss some tools and materials that
are useful for any type of modeling.
Next to a well done finish, construction is equally important in the
overall appearance of a model. To most, this subject is the least
favorite aspect of modeling. This is certainly the case for me.
Nonetheless, I try to do the best job I can and consider it a challenge.
When I begin this process, I tell myself to allow the time needed to
reach my expectations. The two major components needed are time
and patience. Learning to glue, fill and sand will come quickly with
each build. In this section, I will discuss some tools and materials that
are useful for any type of modeling.
Tools of the Trade
Here's the basics that will get you started.
* Sprue cutters - removes parts from the "trees" safely
* Xacto knife - for cutting, scraping and cleaning up styrene
* Sanding paper and sticks (from 150 to 4000 grit)
* Razor saw - cleanly cuts thicker styrene
* Tweezers (fine tip and regular)
* Assorted clamps - for clamping parts together to dry
* Pin vise - for drilling small holes in styrene
* Scribing tool - for etching lines and detail into styrene
* Small paint/putty spatula - for applying filler putties
Here's the basics that will get you started.
* Sprue cutters - removes parts from the "trees" safely
* Xacto knife - for cutting, scraping and cleaning up styrene
* Sanding paper and sticks (from 150 to 4000 grit)
* Razor saw - cleanly cuts thicker styrene
* Tweezers (fine tip and regular)
* Assorted clamps - for clamping parts together to dry
* Pin vise - for drilling small holes in styrene
* Scribing tool - for etching lines and detail into styrene
* Small paint/putty spatula - for applying filler putties
Materials
The market offers many good products for construction and each modeler has their
preferences. Below are some products that work well and make the job much easier.
* Medium thickness super glue (CA)
* Filling putty (basic type)
* Mr. Surfacer 1000
* Tenax plastic weld (glue)
* Very fine applicator tips for CA
* Small nylon brush
* Nail polish remover
* Clear parts glue
* G-S Hypo cement
Super Glue (CA)
Primary uses for this glue is to cement resin parts, photo-etched parts, small parts and
to fill small gaps and joints. DO NOT use on clear parts. The fumes will "fog" them and it
cannot be removed. If used as a gap filler, keep in mind it dries very quickly. Once dry,
It's impossible to sand down. So, after it's applied to the area, allow to set for a minute
or so and then sand. If the CA is not fully dry, it will sand properly. I recommend very
fine applicator tips anytime CA is used. This will allow control of the amount applied and
reach hard to get areas. There are several consistencies
available from thick to thin. I find a medium thickness works
for most needs. If the CA is thin, it may run onto areas where
it's not wanted and create a mess.
Putty
This will allow gaps, sinkholes, joints and seams to be filled and rendered invisible.
Tamiya offers a basic putty which works great. It dries fairly quick and sands down
easily. When sanding, it feathers nicely and does not "pit". I have tried other types and
brands and have stuck with this one. The putty can be applied with a flexible artist
spatula and smoothed. To smooth even further, a Q-tip with some nail polish remover
will settle the putty. The acetone in the polish remover acts as a putty thinner. Just
lightly rub the putty after it's in place with the Q-tip.
Once the putty dries ( I give it 3+ hours), it can be sanded. Use a course grit sand stick
first to remove most of the putty. Then, use a finer grit to finish off and feather in. Finally,
the putty can be polished before priming. I recommend placing tape on each side of the
seam/joint when sanding. This will help protect surface detail around the area from
being damaged or sanded off.
Keep in mind, this putty does shrink when dried. A second or third application may be
necessary to totally fill the area.
Mr. Surfacer 1000
Mr. Surfacer is a very thick, lacquer based primer paint. It can be thinned way down with
lacquer thinner and sprayed as a primer coat. Also, it makes a great filler for small,
shallow blemishes, seams and joints. It dries very quick and can be sanded down. Like
the putty, it feathers very nicely and gives a smooth finish. I recommend sanding with a
smaller grit (400-500) because it removes easily. Mr. Surfacer can be applied with a
pointed paint brush when used as a filler and cleaned up with lacquer thinner only.
The market offers many good products for construction and each modeler has their
preferences. Below are some products that work well and make the job much easier.
* Medium thickness super glue (CA)
* Filling putty (basic type)
* Mr. Surfacer 1000
* Tenax plastic weld (glue)
* Very fine applicator tips for CA
* Small nylon brush
* Nail polish remover
* Clear parts glue
* G-S Hypo cement
Super Glue (CA)
Primary uses for this glue is to cement resin parts, photo-etched parts, small parts and
to fill small gaps and joints. DO NOT use on clear parts. The fumes will "fog" them and it
cannot be removed. If used as a gap filler, keep in mind it dries very quickly. Once dry,
It's impossible to sand down. So, after it's applied to the area, allow to set for a minute
or so and then sand. If the CA is not fully dry, it will sand properly. I recommend very
fine applicator tips anytime CA is used. This will allow control of the amount applied and
reach hard to get areas. There are several consistencies
available from thick to thin. I find a medium thickness works
for most needs. If the CA is thin, it may run onto areas where
it's not wanted and create a mess.
Putty
This will allow gaps, sinkholes, joints and seams to be filled and rendered invisible.
Tamiya offers a basic putty which works great. It dries fairly quick and sands down
easily. When sanding, it feathers nicely and does not "pit". I have tried other types and
brands and have stuck with this one. The putty can be applied with a flexible artist
spatula and smoothed. To smooth even further, a Q-tip with some nail polish remover
will settle the putty. The acetone in the polish remover acts as a putty thinner. Just
lightly rub the putty after it's in place with the Q-tip.
Once the putty dries ( I give it 3+ hours), it can be sanded. Use a course grit sand stick
first to remove most of the putty. Then, use a finer grit to finish off and feather in. Finally,
the putty can be polished before priming. I recommend placing tape on each side of the
seam/joint when sanding. This will help protect surface detail around the area from
being damaged or sanded off.
Keep in mind, this putty does shrink when dried. A second or third application may be
necessary to totally fill the area.
Mr. Surfacer 1000
Mr. Surfacer is a very thick, lacquer based primer paint. It can be thinned way down with
lacquer thinner and sprayed as a primer coat. Also, it makes a great filler for small,
shallow blemishes, seams and joints. It dries very quick and can be sanded down. Like
the putty, it feathers very nicely and gives a smooth finish. I recommend sanding with a
smaller grit (400-500) because it removes easily. Mr. Surfacer can be applied with a
pointed paint brush when used as a filler and cleaned up with lacquer thinner only.
Tenax 7R Plastic Weld
Tenax is a thin, liquid glue that actually melts the plastic together. It's
much more effective and easier to work with than the standard tube
glues. It can be applied with a small nylon brush. The plastic pieces
should be dry fitted first with a small gap between the pieces. The glue
can then be added to the small gap and will "spread" (by capillary
action) throughout the gap. Once the pieces are pressed together, the
"melted" plastic will ooze in small beads from the seam. This is ideal
and will make for a cleaner seam when dried and sanded. Within 30
seconds, the pieces will be set. Allow 24 hours to dry before sanding.
If too much is applied or accidentally gets on other surfaces, the glue
will dimple or distort the plastic. These problems can be sanded out or
filled. However, to avoid this, simply apply modest amounts. Using a
small brush will help with this issue.
Clear Parts Glue
This particular glue is mainly the standard white, crafts glue. It it used
for clear parts attachment such as canopies, windows and light lenses.
The bonding is not very strong but will hold. The pros are that is dries
clear and will not discolor or "fog" the clear parts. It can be cleaned up
with water, alcohol or Windex.
Tenax is a thin, liquid glue that actually melts the plastic together. It's
much more effective and easier to work with than the standard tube
glues. It can be applied with a small nylon brush. The plastic pieces
should be dry fitted first with a small gap between the pieces. The glue
can then be added to the small gap and will "spread" (by capillary
action) throughout the gap. Once the pieces are pressed together, the
"melted" plastic will ooze in small beads from the seam. This is ideal
and will make for a cleaner seam when dried and sanded. Within 30
seconds, the pieces will be set. Allow 24 hours to dry before sanding.
If too much is applied or accidentally gets on other surfaces, the glue
will dimple or distort the plastic. These problems can be sanded out or
filled. However, to avoid this, simply apply modest amounts. Using a
small brush will help with this issue.
Clear Parts Glue
This particular glue is mainly the standard white, crafts glue. It it used
for clear parts attachment such as canopies, windows and light lenses.
The bonding is not very strong but will hold. The pros are that is dries
clear and will not discolor or "fog" the clear parts. It can be cleaned up
with water, alcohol or Windex.
| Dry fit with a small gap and hold |
| Apply modest amount of glue with brush |
| Squeeze parts together until plastic oozes from seam |
| Protecting surrounding detail while sanding |
| Ready for sanding |
| Sanded and feathered |
| Sanded and feathered |